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Grand Veneur, France

Hieroglyphs, not Graffiti

Following our ‘Pessimist’ piece in Historic Gardens Review Number 15 about the unappreciated and dilapidated Egyptian-style fabriques in the Parc du Grand Veneur at Soisy-sur-Seine, we are delighted to report that the park is at last being taken seriously as the unique place it is.

 At the Fête des Plantes at Courson, in October 2004, Jacques Hennequin of JH3D showed a model he made (see photo) of the park as it would once have been. Because the site, in the southern suburbs of Paris, is so changed, the intricate, privately-commissioned model required 140 hours of research and meticulous work. It attracted great attention, including coverage in the gardening press. Now there are hopes that the obelisks, with their fanciful hieroglyphs, and what remains of the temple-cum-ice-house will be protected and that restoration might eventually take place. (August 2005) 

 

Quintessential Quinta – Looking hopeful for Argentinian Garden

Quintessential Quinta – Looking hopeful for Argentinian Garden Amidst claims of corruption in officialdom, property development has in recent months been threatening a peaceful Argentinian garden that can be traced back to the 16th century. What is now the Museo Juan Martîn de Pueyrredón began life as a small-holding planted with trees, vines and olives. In the 18th century a house with a gallery overlooking the River Plate was built around a central courtyard planted with oranges and beds of aromatic herbs. In the next century this became home to General Pueyrredón, a major political figure in the liberation of Argentina, who upgraded the property to make it grander and more befitting his status. He gave the garden tree-lined walkways, classical symmetry and peach and carob trees. He also built a Grecian mirador with a panoramic view of the river.
In 1850 the property passed to Pueyrredón’s son, the famous painter Prilidiano. He made further changes, adding a clipped box design, with magnolias and geometric flowerbeds. In later periods many flowering plants were added, but the existing garden is a restoration of Prilidiano’s garden, with a precious variety of trees, many of them of local importance. Today the property is a Historic National Monument, owned by the town council and run as a museum. Unfortunately, this did not stop developers hoping to build an apartment block nearby. This would have ruined the Quinta’s famous view over the river, while the large underground car park would have affected the water table and destroyed many of the wonderful trees. The Friends of the Museum, headed by a descendent of the General, Marcelo White Pueyrredón, fought the proposals (with some help from the Historic Gardens Foundation) and the authorities have now rejected the application. Linden Groves (January 2005)

 

Change of Heart

The UK government has relented over plans to de-list the Commonwealth Institute in Kensington, which would have allowed the destruction of this interesting post-war building, listed Grade II*. Its fine landscape, where Sylvia Crowe used water and trees in a design that was at once bold and serene, would have been built over. (see HGR 14) Culture Minister Tessa Jowell told Parliament in February 2007 that,“We have no plans to introduce a bill that will give powers to demolish all or part of the buildings on the Commonwealth Institute site.” Instead, the Trustees of the Commonwealth Institute will be encouraged to work with English Heritage on a listed building consent application to be submitted to the local authority later this year. The Trustees have sold the remains of the 999-year lease back to the head landlord, Ilchester Estates, who in turn have sold to another property company, Chelsfield.
The idea is to revert to a 1989 plan under which two new wings, containing flats, will be built to either side of the main pavilion. Profits from their sale can be used in part to finance the restoration of the pavilion and the garden, a project which has been entrusted to the distinguished architect, Norman Foster. The government’s U-turn on de-listing is particularly welcome. It is not just that this one site will be saved, but that there has been no breach of the important principle that listed buildings are protected from development. Gillian Mawrey (January 2005)

*UPDATE* As the Historic Gardens Foundation has helped to campaign against the possible destruction of the Commonwealth Institute, readers will be pleased to know that its future now looks more positive. Six world-class architects have expressed an interest in converting the building and their brief specifically draws attention to the importance of the garden. Derek Ingram (May 2007)

 

No Rest for ‘Mon Repos’

A remarkable landscape park spectacularly set on the edge of the Gulf of Finland near St Petersburg is in urgent need of funding. Strasbourg-born Baron Ludwig Heinrich von Nikolai, lawyer, poet, diplomat and confidant of royalty, acquired the 160-acre site in 1788 and spent the last 17 years of his life creating an English-style park there. Named ‘Mon Repos’, it features a number of follies, sculpture and rare plants and wildlife. After the Russian Revolution of 1917, the area became part of Finland, reverting to Russia again after the Second World War. Since then, the Finns and the Russians have disagreed about the cultural ‘ownership’ of ‘Mon Repos’ but neither side has been able to protect it.
The estate was used in turn as a sanatorium, kindergarten, municipal park and residential housing. By the 1980s it was in a state of such decay that a group of Soviet enthusiasts, guided by the famous academician D.S. Likhachev, set up a project to turn the house into a museum and the park into a nature reserve. Recently the early-19th century mansion, the temple of Neptune and the Tea Arbour were restored by a Finnish voluntary organisation, ‘Park Mon Repos’. but this is now facing severe financial difficulties. The wooden library pavilion, which stands in front of the house, is almost in ruins and many other features are under threat. If you would like to help or know more, please contact Irina Lankinen at the ‘Park Mon Repos’ association in Helsinki on +00 35 8 9 801 6621. Alla Vronskaya (June 2007)

 

Minoan Menace

Sir Arthur Evans was perhaps the most famous classical archaeologist of the 20th century. Almost single-handed, he established that the Minoan civilization of Crete was not an invention of later legend but actually existed – indeed flourished – in the second millennium BC. His most famous discovery was the palace of King Minos at Knossos. In the heady early days of archaeology, the wealthy Evans was able to buy the entire site before excavating it. On the edge of it, in 1906, he built the Villa Ariadne to use as his home and headquarters and aroudn it he created a large Mediterranean with palm trees (Phoenix canariensis and P. dactylifera).
The villa and its gardens were given by Evans to the British School of Archaeology and eventually by the School to the Greek State. In the 1990s a collaboration between the British School and architect Flavio Zamon began to restore both villa and gardens, with the work being completed in about 2002. Then disaster struck. In the run-up to the Athens Olympics in 2004 the Greek government imported thousands of foreign palm trees in order to ‘beautify’ the coast near Heraklion. With these trees came a small beetle with a big name (Rhynchophorous ferrugineus) which can destroy palms almost as quickly as napalm. Zanon and his team are trying to gear up the creaking machinery of Greek bureaucracy into providing the necessary resources to counter the beetle (not helped by discovering that the garden was not even listed). It must be hoped that they are successful or this famous Cretan landmark will suffer grievously. (May 2009)

 

Paradise Not Yet Lost

The site of the garden lovingly portrayed by Elizabeth von Arnim in her 1898 best-selling book Elizabeth and her German Garden needs urgent attention to prevent it from disappearing forever. Elizabeth, born Mary Annette Beauchamp in Australia in 1866, moved to London when she was three years old. She married the Count von Arnim in 1891 and later went to live at his neglected estate at Nasseheide, then in Germany but now in Poland, where she created and wrote about her ‘German Garden’. The book is a fusion of the literary and the horticultural, blending humorous tales of gardening experiences with those of a young Englishman trying to live the life of a countess in a remote part of Germany at the end of the 19th century.
Her naturalistic planting ideas, as described in this book, and its sequel, The Solitary Summer, stem from her love of nature and Romantic literature. Nassenheide was also owned at the end of the 18th century by Graf Henckel von Donnersmarck, a plant-loving explorer who collected seeds from all over the world, some of which were planted on the estate. Elizabeth and her family left the estate 100 years ago to return to England. Of her 21 novels, The Enchanted April is probably the best known today. The ravages of two world wars and the communist régime have taken their toll. All that is now visible of her garden is the huge semi-circle that once contained a formal rose garden, and some of the original spectacular lilacs. The old mansion lies in ruins, covered by briars and nettles. But enough remains amply to repay research and investigation. In a remote corner of Poland lies an undiscovered piece of English literary and horticultural heritage. I wonder if anyone might want to follow this up? Jennifer Walker (May 2009) Elizabeth and her German Garden can be read at www.gutenberg.org

 

Greenwich Park in 2012

Even Olympic events require planning permission under UK law. The application to hold the equestrian and modern pentathlon competitions in Greenwich Park in 2012 was submitted to Greenwich Council recently, shocking even some supporters of the project by the amount of the park that would be affected. The cross-country route, for instance (shown as dotted lines on the plan (above) inserts its twisting 6km long tentacles into almost every corner, while most of the rest of the park is taken up by the grandstands and tents. Yet, as protestors always warned, there is not enough room in the park itself for all the facilities, and the organisers are now proposing to take over further public open green space outside on nearby Blackheath (on the right of the plan). The Garden History Society has written to Greenwich Council formally objecting to the plans. The GHS points out that “even temporary” events can have an impact which extends far beyond the conclusion of the temporary event; in some cases … so severe that the damage is permanent.” Details of the planning application and objections can be downloaded from

http://onlineplanning.greenwich.gov.uk/acolnet/planningonline/acolnetcgi.gov (December 2009)

In Historic Gardens Review for Autumn 2008 I raised the question of whether Greenwich Park, a unique Baroque gem set in a World Heritage Site, just south of the Thames, was the right place to host the Olympic Equestrian and Modern Penthathlon events and the Paralympic Dressage competition in 2012. Even though Greenwich Park, criss-crossed with avenues of fine trees, is one of London’s most historic and beautiful Royal Parks, many people believe that it will not be adequately protected against damage. A copy of Historic Gardens Review was sent to Greg McErlean, Director of Major Projects for The Royal Parks, together with a letter inviting him to comment. Mr McErlean replied speedily and reassuringly, and offered to comment again later on. But he now feels that it should be the organisers, LOCOG, who respond. The response that LOCOG provided included: “We are not cutting down any trees to accommodate the Equestrian events and The Royal Parks will continue its normal tree maintenance programmes. We have also listened to the views of local residents and redesigned the Cross Country course so it avoids the most sensitive areas, including the lake in the Flower Garden.” The Mayor of London, Boris Johnson, was also sent a copy of the magazine, and we know he received it and passed it on to his staff. No one at City Hall has ever replied to the enclosed letter – which seems typical of politicians’ lack of respect for historic landscapes. It is assumed that large events can take place in such spaces without damaging them – in spite of the fact that The Royal Parks recently had to play for metre-deep treatment to St James’s Park to remedy compaction caused by the Olympic Handover Concert held there last August. A group of local Greenwich people have formed NOGOE (No to Greenwich Olympic Equestrian Events). At this late stage, it is unlikely that they will be able to persuade LOCOG to move the events to another venue, but perhaps their insistence will encourage English Heritage, which has to approve the plans, not to let anything go ahead on the nod. The Historic Gardens Foundation believes that whether historic landscapes, such as Greenwich Park, are properly protected is important not just to Londoners, and those who visit London, but to everyone all over the world who thinks that such places have a value which transcends short-term political gain. London must get this right. Gillian Mawrey (May 2009)

 

A Surrealist Stowe in Mexico

An Englishman spends 40 years creating a huge landscape garden with follies in the mountainous jungles of Mexico’s Huesteca Region. Have we perhaps discovered a hitherto unknown novel by Graham Greene or an unpublished Gabriel García Márquez? No. It’s for real. Edward James, the poet and wealthy patron of Surrealism, who already owned West Dean in Sussex, bought the Las Posas ranch at Xilitla in 1944 and, in collaboration with Plutarco Gasbélum Esquer, spent the next 40 years creating a sort of Surrealist Stowe or buffo Bomarzo – a park with canals, pools, and, above all, nearly 40 different follies (above), built in concrete, most of which were left unfinished at his death.
The follies were suitably Surrealist – a library without books, a ‘stairway to nowhere’, a cinema without seats and (very Bomarzo) the ‘Three-Storey House’ with, in fact, five storeys. Time is unkind to neglected gardens and jungle even harsher. Las Posas, though doubtless made more romantic by the jungle, is also being swiftly degraded by its encroaching vegetation. Because war, weather and wanderlust can destroy quicker than Man can build, the World Monuments Fund, the planet’s heritage watchdog, publishes a biennial Watch List. The 2010 list (published October 2009) contains 94 sites spread over most of the world (www.wmf.org.uk) and highlights Las Posas (The Pools) as a monument at risk (ironically the list also contains Stowe). Fortunately, the danger has been realised and a trust, the Fondo Xilitla (www.xilitla.org), has been established to save, restore – and make viable as a tourist destination – this unique English jeu d’esprit in remote Mexico. Given the voracious march of the jungle, we can only hope that this initiative, supported – appropriately, given the construction material – by cement company CEMEX, has not come too late. Richard Mawrey (December 2009)

 

Persian Paradise Neglected

There has been a garden at Kashan, just south of Teheran, since at least the time of the first Safavid emperor in the early 16th century. Shah Abbas, who was recently the subject of a wonderful exhibition at the British Museum, added some buildings in the early 17th century, and clearly Kashan remained a favourite place of Shah Abbas, since he chose to be buried there rather than in his new capital Esfehan; but the garden buildings we see today are largely the result of a 19th-century Qajar reconstruction. The Bagh-e-Fin has all the elements of the classic Islamic garden: it is walled, and laid out in regular rectangular compartments; abundant water drives the fountains and fills the canals, which cross each other at right angles. There are the familiar sunken planting areas, below the level of the paths to make irrigation easier. At the crossing of the two principal canals there is a pleasure pavilion, through which the water flows, cooling the air. And there are ancient cypress trees, celebrated in Persian poetry as the epitome of beauty, both male and female.
But today these cypresses are in a sorry state; many are dead or dying, while others have rotten limbs which must surely pose a danger to the many families who come to enjoy the garden at weekends. There is no apparent programme of tree care, and no sign of replacement trees being planted. The same lack of attention to detail is seen in the sunken rectangles farthest away from the central canal; here there seems to be no attempt at planting. Shortage of funds cannot be at the root of the problem, since each of the many visitors pays for entrance. Why then is this great treasure of Persian garden art being so neglected? Rory Stuart (December 2009)

 

Terminator

In June 2007 Historic Gardens Review 18 carried a piece on the Jack London State Historic Park, 50 miles (80km) north of San Francisco, California. The famous author bought the Beauty Ranch property in 1905 after The Call of the Wild brought him worldwide fame, and he lived there until his death in 1916. In 1914 London built a stone dam, 200 feet long, to hold back rainwater adn the water from two springs to create a lake designed for both irrigation and recreation, a place where his visitors could swim, fish and canoe. The Park came into the control of the California State Parks system in 1960 and a further 756 acres (344 ha) was purchased by the State in the 1970s. Sadly the dam had deteriorated and around $1m needed to be raised to restore the dam and the lake. The Jack London Lake Alliance, which was organizing the fundraising, hoped to start work in 2010.
Then came the credit crunch. The State of California had always lived beyond its means and the crunch hit hard. At times like these, one of the first things to be thrown out of the lifeboat is the heritage. By the summer of 2009 Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger was threatening to close no fewer than 220 parks. In the area just north of San Francisco, the proposal is to close all the parks. This includes Jack London State Historic Park, which has already been closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays, and Sonoma State Historic Park, now closed on Thursdays. The latter brings to life the story of General Vallejo who was the last Mexican Governor of this area before the Bear Flag Rising of 1846 which ultimately brought California into the Union. Two websites for verification and updates: www.parks.ca.gov and www.jacklondonlake.org Jenny Randall (December 2009)

 
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